In March 2025, Gucci made a bold move: it tapped Demna (formerly the creative force behind Balenciaga) to become its new Artistic Director, effective July. This high-stakes appointment arrives during a turbulent period for the storied luxury house, as it seeks to reclaim relevance, energy, and cultural edge under a fresh vision.
A Fresh Direction — and a High-Risk Assignment
Gucci’s recent creative turnover has been swift and dramatic. Sabato De Sarno’s brief tenure ended amid weaker-than-expected sales and internal pressure. Demna arrives with both a reputation for provocation and a design language deeply rooted in streetwear, archive recontextualization, and cultural commentary. His challenge: to both honor Gucci’s heritage and push it into new visual territory — not an easy balance, especially for a brand as iconic and scrutinized as this.
September Debut & Unconventional Reveal
Instead of a runway show, Gucci rolled out Demna’s debut via a cinematic event. On September 23, 2025, during Milan Fashion Week, the brand premiered The Tiger—a short film co-directed by Spike Jonze and Halina Reijn, starring Demi Moore. Concurrently, Gucci dropped the La Famiglia lookbook and portrait capsule campaign. The film’s red carpet premiere functioned as a de facto fashion show, with guests wearing pieces from Demna’s first collection.
The Stakes Are High
Gucci is operating under significant pressure:
- Sales slump & brand fatigue: Gucci’s revenue has slipped, with critics arguing that the brand had grown too safe and repetitive under its last direction.
- Expectations for reinvention: Demna’s track record at Balenciaga — injecting relevance and cultural resonance — marks him as a provocative choice to shake up Gucci’s aesthetic.
- Audience and market alignment: Luxury consumers now expect storytelling, identity, and “why” as much as couture. A visual reboot is only part of Demna’s assignment — he must restore emotional connection.
- Risk of alienation: In leaning too hard into provocation, a legacy house can lose longtime customers. Balancing boldness with coherence will be critical.
What to Watch Going Forward
- Next runway season: Will Demna stick with film and stories, or return to traditional formats?
- Retail execution & capsule drops: The limited-release La Famiglia items and boutique experiences will test demand.
- Archive reinvention: How deeply will earlier Gucci motifs be reinterpreted — Flora, monogram, horsebit — and will they feel renewed or recycled?
- Brand messaging: Will the narrative of Gucci’s identity (the family, the codes, the heritage) align consistently across marketing, campaigns, and collections?
